How do you control blur?
There are only a few ways to control blurring in your images. But there is only one element, light. How you add enough light to prevent blur is the key. Increase ISO, widen your aperture or Flash.
The first two tools for adding light are the quickest and easiest options. The third, adding flash, may be easy too for those whose cameras include the unit in their models, but for those with a semi-pro to pro body camera without flash built-in, it becomes more challenging.
Adding light through the use of raising ISO, while quick and easy, can create another problem, noise, though unless you show it full size or print it full size you may not notice the noise. I generally shoot in the 100-200 range ISO, but I have found myself in situations where even after opening the Aperture to it's widest I have to raise ISO to 600, 800 even higher to gain any acceptable images. The price the image pays is, as stated, noise. But that can be acceptable too if you are not shooting a wedding or a portrait. And sometimes even then you can modify the image for an unusual, what I like to call an alternative, shot, to compensate for the added imperfection.
The last option, flash is a whole other subject to itself. Easy? Yes if you are in Auto Mode on your camera and your flash. But if in Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority you'll need to think about synching your flash to the shutter speed of your particular camera body. This is specific to each body series and by manufacturer and then there is the flash itself. To learn about this I always recommend doing some research online in addition to your flash manual.
So you are in a situation where your camera is delivering images, yet they are soft, blurred. In most outdoor occasions I go first to opening to my widest aperture, then to the tripod, then to ISO. And of course if you are using a lens with image stabilization, unless you are using a really long telephoto lens, say above 400mm, you want to turn off the AF and go manual focus. IS or OS or VR, all mean the same thing, stabilizing your jittery movements, with software and motor drive technology. They do not help, on the other hand with your subject's movements. That is another subject which is dealt with through the use of IS II, but I won't get into that here.
If after trying the widest aperture and even raising the ISO doesn't give you what you are seeking, then you will simply have to try the tripod and perhaps even a shutter release control. And finally the flash for adding more ambient light.
Here's a good, if short treatment on the subject from one of the better sites I frequent. There clearly is much more on the idea of adding light but if you need something more lengthy, you'll find a ton of info by defining your keywords in a search.
Next time you go out on a cloudy day or find yourself in a shady spot, no not that kind, try to remember these tips and while I can't promise you you'll get exactly what you want, I can promise you you'll get closer.
Leave a comment below on how it worked for you.
The first two tools for adding light are the quickest and easiest options. The third, adding flash, may be easy too for those whose cameras include the unit in their models, but for those with a semi-pro to pro body camera without flash built-in, it becomes more challenging.
Adding light through the use of raising ISO, while quick and easy, can create another problem, noise, though unless you show it full size or print it full size you may not notice the noise. I generally shoot in the 100-200 range ISO, but I have found myself in situations where even after opening the Aperture to it's widest I have to raise ISO to 600, 800 even higher to gain any acceptable images. The price the image pays is, as stated, noise. But that can be acceptable too if you are not shooting a wedding or a portrait. And sometimes even then you can modify the image for an unusual, what I like to call an alternative, shot, to compensate for the added imperfection.
The last option, flash is a whole other subject to itself. Easy? Yes if you are in Auto Mode on your camera and your flash. But if in Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority you'll need to think about synching your flash to the shutter speed of your particular camera body. This is specific to each body series and by manufacturer and then there is the flash itself. To learn about this I always recommend doing some research online in addition to your flash manual.
So you are in a situation where your camera is delivering images, yet they are soft, blurred. In most outdoor occasions I go first to opening to my widest aperture, then to the tripod, then to ISO. And of course if you are using a lens with image stabilization, unless you are using a really long telephoto lens, say above 400mm, you want to turn off the AF and go manual focus. IS or OS or VR, all mean the same thing, stabilizing your jittery movements, with software and motor drive technology. They do not help, on the other hand with your subject's movements. That is another subject which is dealt with through the use of IS II, but I won't get into that here.
If after trying the widest aperture and even raising the ISO doesn't give you what you are seeking, then you will simply have to try the tripod and perhaps even a shutter release control. And finally the flash for adding more ambient light.
Here's a good, if short treatment on the subject from one of the better sites I frequent. There clearly is much more on the idea of adding light but if you need something more lengthy, you'll find a ton of info by defining your keywords in a search.
Next time you go out on a cloudy day or find yourself in a shady spot, no not that kind, try to remember these tips and while I can't promise you you'll get exactly what you want, I can promise you you'll get closer.
Leave a comment below on how it worked for you.
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